How to Sew a Zipper in a Dress: 12 Steps

Adding a zipper to a dress can feel like a daunting task, but with the right tools and some patience, you can tackle this project like a seasoned seamstress. Here are 12 simple steps to help you successfully sew a zipper into any dress.
1. Gather your supplies: To start, make sure you have all the necessary tools and materials including a sewing machine, zipper foot, pins or fabric clips, fabric scissors, an iron, thread that matches your dress fabric, and of course, the correct length of zipper.
2. Prepare the fabric: Ensure your dress fabric is pre-washed and cut according to your pattern instructions. Iron any wrinkles out before you begin sewing.
3. Choose the appropriate zipper type: For dresses, an invisible or regular dress zipper is most commonly used. Select a zipper that matches or complements the color of your dress.
4. Baste stitch the seam allowance: Before inserting your zipper, sew baste stitches along the seam allowance on both sides of the fabric where you’ll insert your zipper. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end as these stitches will be removed later.
5. Press open seams: Using an iron, press open the seam allowances where you’ve just sewed baste stitches so they lie flat.
6. Mark the starting point: Hold your closed zipper along the seam-edge and mark on your fabric where it begins for proper placement.
7. Pin/clip one side: With your dress facing right side up, position one side of your opened zipper along one side of the open seam, aligning teeth with baste stitches. Secure in place with straight pins or fabric clips.
8. Sew one side of the zipper: Attach the sewing machine’s zipper foot and set stitch length to normal for garment seams (usually around 2-3 millimeters). Sew from top to bottom of the zipper’s length, using baste stitches as a guide. Backstitch a couple of times at the end for reinforcement.
9. Determine zipper length: Close the zipper and mark on the other side of the seam where the zipper ends, so you have a balanced finish on both sides.
10. Pin/clip & sew the other side: Repeat steps 7 and 8 for the other side of the zipper, ensuring both ends match.
11. Close bottom seam: Once your zipper is securely in place, remove all pins or clips, then sew using normal stitch length and backstitching a few times right below where your zipper ends up until your dress’s bottom hem.
12. Remove basting stitches: Carefully remove visible baste stitches to reveal your neatly inserted zipper.
And that’s it! With practice and patience, you can sew zippers into dresses with ease, adding a professional touch to any garment. Now, go ahead and flaunt your beautiful dress with its perfectly installed zipper.